Editor’s Note: Fork & Dagger is 828newsNOW’s anonymous restaurant review series, written by our independent Grub Scout—no freebies, no press perks, no agenda. Grub Scout pays full price, visits unannounced, and takes notes on food, service, atmosphere, and value. Each review reflects a recent, honest experience rated on our 1‑to‑5 fork scale. We aim to help you discover standout dining spots—from casual diners to white‑tablecloth affairs—one bite at a time.
Ever had brunch in an old grocery store that was also an old Pentecostal church? I did this past Sunday. Tall John’s restaurant in Montford is housed in a space that holds a rich legacy and offers food equally as rich.
Upon entering, you’ll see a lovely aesthetic that’s cozy and trying, but not trying too hard. There is a casual art deco flair mixed with some mid-century modern. I really liked the large shelf of cookbooks prominently displayed. It offers a natural, homey feeling.
When we were seated, my first feeling was being overwhelmed by the perfect chair. I like furniture design and architecture almost as much as I like food, so a perfect chair is a fantastic way to start a meal, but I digress. It was busy that morning, but not crowded, and the volume wasn’t too loud. Overall, the ambience was quite pleasant.
We weren’t feeling wine, but the list looked spectacular, with interesting Eastern European grapes offered. We were, however, intrigued by the hot toddy, so we both went with that. The recipe of whiskey, Eda Rhyne nocino, Amaro Nardini, citrus and honey did not disappoint. It was a fascinating mixture of flavors.
I’ll say first that the brunch food menu was entirely too exciting for how hungry we were. I wanted to order four entrees. Unfortunately, we had to choose two.
I am a big fan of French cuisine, so I had to go with the Croque Madame, a traditional sandwich of ham, gruyere cheese and Mornay sauce with an egg on top. It was extraordinary.
She had the Dutch Baby, which is the German equivalent of the crepe, but much thicker, with a large edge around it. It was then topped with caramelized apples and whipped cream, which to me is just a highfalutin Rooty Tooty Fresh and Fruity, but far more elegant and delightful.
We also shared a couple sides. The breakfast sausage was a mild Italian pork that was well seasoned, and the potatoes were ideally crispy on the outside and soft and buttery on the inside.
From the moment I entered this place until the moment I left, I was overjoyed. I cannot sing its praises enough, and if you do visit, make sure to check out the bathroom on the left, for the best wallpaper you’ve ever seen. You’ll thank me later.
